To safely and effectively use a derma roller for hair growth, choose a 0.5 mm needle size, use it on a clean scalp no more than twice a week, and apply a soothing, non-irritating serum afterwards to maximise benefits and avoid infection.
Using tiny needles on your scalp may sound scary, but this method is getting more attention for helping with hair loss. A derma roller makes a controlled micro injury to your scalp, encouraging the activation of natural hair growth factors. This can lead to healthier and thicker hair. It increases blood flow and collagen production, creating a better environment for hair growth. If you want to try it but don’t know how to start, this guide on how to use derma roller, will give you step-by-step instructions.
How do I choose the right derma roller?
Your first step is selecting the right tool, and the most critical factor is the needle size. For home use, it is recommended that you never exceed 1.0 mm; however, for beginners, starting with smaller sizes is required.
- For beginners (0.5 mm): “This size is ideal for those just starting. It’s compelling enough to penetrate the top layer of the scalp and stimulate hair follicles without causing significant discomfort or damage,” Dr Sejal Saheta, Dermatologist, tells Health Shots.
- For more advanced users (1.0 mm): This size can be more effective for significant thinning but should only be used after you’re comfortable with the process and, ideally, after consulting a professional. Using needles that are too long can damage the scalp.
You also want to choose a roller with high-quality needles. Look for titanium or medical-grade stainless steel, as they are durable, sharp, and more hygienic, reducing your risk of infection. You can explore a variety of derma rollers for hair growth to find a reputable brand that suits your needs.
What is the correct way to use a derma roller on my scalp?
Proper technique is important for achieving results and preventing problems. It’s a simple process, but every step matters.
- Start clean: Always begin with a clean, dry scalp and freshly washed hair. This prevents you from pushing dirt and bacteria into the micro-channels you’re about to create, as per the journal Sciencedirect.
- Sanitise your roller: Before every single use, disinfect your derma roller by soaking it in rubbing alcohol for 5-10 minutes. Let it air dry thoroughly.
- Roll gently: “Part your hair to expose the areas of the scalp you want to treat. Gently roll the device over the skin—horizontally, vertically, and diagonally—about 4-5 times in each direction. Do not apply excessive pressure; it should feel like a mild tingling, not pain,” suggests the dermatologist.
- Lift, don’t drag: To avoid tangling or pulling out hair, lift the roller off your scalp before changing directions.

How often should I be using it?
More is not better when it comes to derma rolling. Your scalp needs time to heal and regenerate between sessions.
- With a 0.5 mm roller: “Using it once or twice a week is plenty,” advises the dermatologist.
- With a 1.0 mm roller, you should only use it every two to three weeks to allow for adequate recovery time, as per the Journal of Human Kinetics.
What should I put on my scalp after rolling?
After creating all those tiny channels, your scalp is primed to absorb products more effectively. However, it’s also susceptible. You must avoid heavy or irritating products.
- DO use: Hair growth serums containing ingredients like peptides or minoxidil. Soothing agents like aloe vera gel or hyaluronic acid can also calm redness and hydrate the scalp. A 2013 study in the International Journal of Trichology found that combining microneedling with minoxidil application was significantly more effective for promoting hair regrowth than using minoxidil alone.
- Don’t use: Avoid heavy hair oils, alcohol-based tonics, or anything with a strong fragrance immediately after rolling. These can clog the micro-injuries and cause severe irritation or infection, as per Medical Microbiology.
Starting with a derma roller doesn’t have to be complicated. By choosing the right tool, using it correctly, and following up with the proper care, you can safely incorporate this powerful technique into your hair growth routine.
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